I will have some for purchase. $2.50 each.
Available online at https:/ multimediaartboard.com

All boards/panels should be primed before class. You can use pre-primed or if you do it yourself, use 2-3 coats of gesso.Tape the edges of all panels to keep them clean, to be painted or stained after you finish the painting.

Have this done before class. (I recommend at least 5 boards for the course depending on size, various sizes - 9x12, 11x14,10x10, 12x12, 12x15) *Bring one panel for the first class

Cradled wood panels

usually buy unprimed boards and prime them myself. 

I recommend at least 3, trowel type, blade sizes ranging from 1”-3”. These will be used for scraping and gouging as well as applying paint. Have a variety of shapes-I recommend rectangular and diamond. These should be painting knives, NOT palette knives. 

The long edge should be straight and firm with a minimum of flex.

I prefer the white or gray ones for a straight, flat edge. There are others that are crenellated for line mark making.

If unsure what to bring to first class bring an old gift card or small pieces of matboard (gift card size)

Anything you might have lying around, the house or studio that can be pressed or scribed into the paint or used to make a mark. Toothbrush, old ruined paint brush, scribing tools (dental tools, large nails, skewers, chopsticks) variety of stencils, rubber stamps, cheesecloth, doilies (plastic is best because they can be cleaned), eye dropper, pencils, charcoal, pieces of bubble wrap, etc. 

(latex doesn’t hold up to solvents). Protect your hands. This will be messy.

Apron or smock and/or old clothes - Again, this can be messy! 

First, bring what ever you have. When choosing your palette, keep in mind that we will be working with color contrasts as well as texture to build layers. You need a variety of complementary pairs, light-mid-dark values, warm and cool tones, high & low chromas (brightness), opaque and transparent colors. 

You don’t need all of the colors below. This is only a guide to what to consider in terms of the contrasts that I mentioned above. If you are starting from scratch, a selection of primary and secondary colors is best for mixing and experimenting.

Have at least two earth colors, a black and a white.

If you have a preferred palette, use that, but be sure it contains complements. Bring any paints you have already. 

*Must have a white and a black or black alternative plus at least six colors taken from the categories below.

Metallics are not necessary, but fun to play with. 

Any of the Cadmiums, Naples Yellow, Yellow Ochre, any of the Mars colors, Indian and Venetian Red, Cerulean and Turquoise Blue, Chromium Green, Titanium and Warm White (Gamblin).

Note:

Utrecht brand at Blick now has Cadmium replacement colors that are just as vibrant without the toxicity of the cadmiums.

Ultramarine Blue, Ultramarine Violet, Transparent Earth Yellow, Red and Orange; Alizarin Red or Orange, any of the Quinacradones, Dioxazine Purple, any of the Pthalos, Permanent Indian Yellow. 

SEMI TRANSPARENT

can be used as either opaque or transparent, depending on how you apply it. Very useful colors. Most earth colors-Umbers, Siennas, Ochres. Ivory Black, Zinc White, Payne’s Gray, VanDyke Brown, Asphaltum (Gamblin), Terre Verte, Permanent Green and Yellow, Sap Green. 

Zinc White is the most transparent white. Titanium White is opaque. I also like Warm White (opaque) by Gamblin. 

Ivory Black; Chromatic Black (Gamblin) - a neutral, transparent black that is good for mixing and tinting; Van Dyke Brown (a warm black), Payne’s Gray (cool) 

any combination of gold, silver, copper

any combination of pre-mixed grays. Most (except Payne’s & Davy’s) tend to be opaque. I recommend the following: 

Payne’s Gray-a cool bluish purplish dark, almost black when applied full strength; Warm Gray (any brand but I prefer Sennelier), a warm neutral, almost tan, light/medium in value; Gamblin’s Portland Cool Gray-a light gray/blue. I also include Titan Buff and Unbleached Titanium here because they serve the same purpose as grays, very light value/warm/cream/buff tones, opaque. 

Warm and cool grays are available in most brands. They differ by the base tint. Some warm grays have a yellowish base, some are more toward the pinks, some are greenish. The same with the cool grays. Some are more bluish, some more purplish. My favorites are Sennilier’s or Old Holland’s Warm Gray, and Gamblin’s Cool Portland Gray. I recommend at least one cool and one warm gray.

When purchasing, look at the color family of the gray. You may prefer a pinkish, or greenish or bluish or tanish tone.